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Remembering our favorite rabble-rousers: Chef Richard Cottance
Blame the chains?
2003 in review
Our cuisine editor says cheerio
Outstanding specimens
A strong Pan-Asian orientation
Bistro Tchopstix bodes well for the downtown
Before getting to the many pleasing and positive aspects of this ambitious new independent, let’s get out of the way its one major and most niggling drawback: location. Downtown Indianapolis, as we all know by now, is a haven for chains. With the exception of a couple of notable indies, all the really prime spots have been gobbled up by The Usual Suspects, forcing privately-owned establishments to forage around the edges for scraps in the least likely of locations. The corner of Illinois and Ohio is one such spot. By all means, it should house some of the most successful restaurants in town; after all, there are plenty of office buildings and thousands of presumably hungry and thirsty workers within seconds of this busy intersection. And yet at least two of the handful of eateries here close immediately after lunch, and I can only assume that none of them attract business from much farther than a few blocks away. Who, except for the most observant of us, would know that 251 N. Illinois houses two restaurants: Battery Park and Cafe 251? To say that the restaurants on this corner cater to a strictly parochial market would be a serious understatement, so you have to wish any new eatery opening here the very best of good fortune. Now to the positives. Bistro Tchopstix is an independently owned and operated establishment with a strong Pan-Asian orientation, which bodes well for a downtown that boasts but one serious Asian restaurant. The decor is pretty straightforward, with a few bamboo canes distributed here and there to remind us of where we are, and a small sushi bar tucked discreetly in the corner. In addition, and even more discreetly, a couple of well-stocked bookshelves are conveniently situated close to the entrance to cater to the presumably ample flow of solitary diners who may have inadvertently left their copy of the Robb Report in the bathroom. Seating around 100 between the main floor dining room and the loft area, Bistro Tchopstix affords a generous sense of space despite the relative proximity of the tables. On the occasion of a recent visit, the management informed us that the restaurant had temporarily closed for dinner, but would be re-opening before the end of May, once business had picked up a bit. Similarly, we were assured that an alcohol license was on its way, although, because of the proximity to Battery Park, Bistro Tchopstix would only be able to serve wine and beer. For the meantime, then, the drinks selection consists of premium teas, the usual fountain drinks and a rather interesting and invigorating ginger cinnamon cooler ($2.50), which also works quite well in lieu of a digestif. For such a small establishment, the menu here is surprisingly long and involved, extending to a six-course Korean dinner for $50, or a Dinner Royal (chef’s choice) for $70. Before stepping up to such ambitious culinary adventures at such a newly-opened restaurant, Amy-Lynn and I decided to take it easy and sample a few of the more conservative selections that might prove representative of the chef’s abilities. Deciding that sushi is often a good way to gauge a restaurant’s commitment to quality, we started with an assortment from the sensibly limited menu. Upon ordering the Uni, we were informed by the manager that, although sea urchin was in stock, he would prefer that we not try it, as it wasn’t selling too well. When it comes to sushi, this kind of honesty is crucial, so hats off on that score. While waiting for the sushi to arrive, we enjoyed a savory, but not overly salty, bowl of miso soup ($1.95), which whetted the appetite quite nicely. When they arrived, the remaining selections of sushi — some yellow tail, some clam and a couple of others — were fresh in the sense that they were perfectly edible, but all possessed a somewhat lackluster sheen that told us they had been sitting in the refrigerator just a little too long. This is by no means an indictment of the restaurant’s attention to detail, merely an indication that, as a sushi bar, it has yet to catch on with a wider audience. Time, doubtless, will rectify this issue as more people catch on to the fact that downtown now offers not one, but two, sushi bars. Next came a very sound Asian lettuce wrap ($6.95), which consisted of several crisp lettuce leaves, a generous mound of shredded barbecued beef with a bowl of sweet and savory dipping sauce on the side. Of course, this is precisely the kind of dish that ultimately distributes itself roughly into three parts — one into my mouth, one onto the table cloth and one down my shirt front — but it’s well worth the effort. For the main course, we ordered the Korean beef stroganoff ($7.95), a large dish that the kitchen thoughtfully divided into two separate plates. The half pound or so of beef in this dish had been marinated in a sweet and savory liquid, prior to being slowly cooked to an admirable level of tenderness. Served without sauce, the dish initially threatened to be a bit on the dry side, but the meat in fact turned out to be admirably moist. Served with carrots, onions and a liberal helping of fresh green beans, not to mention a lavish portion of rice, this was a generous dish, indeed, even when split two ways. A side order of white kimchi brought a note of authenticity to the proceedings, but I don’t honestly recommend eating the stuff if you plan on returning to a business meeting after lunch. That is, of course, unless all your colleagues have just eaten the same thing. In the evening, Bistro Tchopstix offers up a wide selection of entrees, including steaks and cooked seafood, with a number of vegetarian dishes. Dessert right now is limited to the aforementioned ginger and cinnamon cooler, and an assortment of ice creams. We were served a bowl of red bean ice cream that was of a commercial quality and not particularly interesting. There are better examples on the market. Throughout our meal, we were admirably taken care of by an attentive and knowledgeable team of servers and managers who appeared to put our dining pleasure very much front and center. Although Bistro Tchopstix is currently undergoing a few teething pains, I’m sure that, as the client base expands, things will improve dramatically. This certainly promises to be a good late lunch destination or, if their plans work out, an admirable venue for an early dinner.
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