As the world's largest producer of wine, with its over 400 officially recognized appellations and well over 2,000 different types, Italy can present something of a minefield to the novice and experienced consumer alike. Unlike New World wines, Italian wines are, for the most part, labeled not according to the grape varieties from which they are made, but from the region or sub-region in which they are grown.

Without a gift for geography or a prodigious memory, it is virtually impossible to keep track of the ever-expanding world of Italian wine, which is why reference books are so handy. For a good overview, I strongly recommend Italian Wine for Dummies, the works of Burton Anderson or, for the more adventurous, the scholarly and frequently haughty Gambero Rosso.

As far as shopping for wine is concerned, I've found that it pays to follow certain importers, some of whose names are pretty well a guarantee of quality. A few names to look out for (in your local fine wine store, as opposed to grocery store) are Winebow/Leonardo Locasio, Neil Empson, Vias, Vin Divino and/or Marc De Grazia. These are by no means small importers, but they still bring a strong sense of individuality to their portfolios and are, for the most part, painfully selective when it comes to choosing producers to represent.

Over the past couple of years, I've become increasingly enamored with the wines of Vin Divino, a Chicago-based importer. Generally, their name pretty well guarantees a good bottle of wine, and the prices are quite reasonable. The following is a selection of some of my favorites in the under $20 price range. These wines are all in distribution in Indiana through Monarch Beverage and should be available through better wine stores. Prices are approximate retail.

Nino Franco "Rustico" Prosecco Valdobbiadine, Veneto ($12)
No Venetian meal would be complete without a glass or two of Prosecco from the Conegliano-Valdobbiadene region just 30 miles or so north of Venice. Made in a variety of styles, from bone dry to dessert wine sweet, Prosecco makes a wonderful alternative to Champagne or New World sparkling wine. Not quite as fizzy as its more expensive counterparts, but still admirably frothy, Prosecco brut goes beautifully with shellfish, or with the slightly spicy local cured sausage known as soppressata. Nino Franco"s version is delicately floral on the nose, with a hint of citrus. On the palate it is light and airy, with a crisp aftertaste and lively bubbles. With its low alcohol (around 10-11 percent), this makes a perfect brunch wine.

Villa del Borgo Pinot Grigio, Grave, Friuli ($11)
East of the Veneto, bordering Croatia and Austria, lies the elevated, cool climate region of Friuli Venezia Giulia. With its deep gravelly soils and long growing season, this area has become home in recent years to some of Italy"s most crisp and refreshing wines, both red and white. Careful growers, and there are many, have elevated the standard of their wines by reducing crop yields, modifying trellising techniques and introducing state-of-the-art winemaking techniques. This excellent Pinot Grigio, grown in the celebrated Forchir vineyard, is a classic of its type. With a savory Italian marketplace aroma of bread dough and cooked meat and a clean, moderately concentrated palate, this is a perfect aperitif wine. Surprisingly deep in flavor and extract for a wine of this type, this has to be one of the great values in Pinot Grigio.

Villa Giada Barbera "Suri Russ" Asti, Piemonte ($9)
East of Turin, in the northwestern corner of Italy, lies the small town of Asti. A never-ending sea of grapevines, this region is perhaps most famous for its sparkling wines, known as Asti Spumante or Moscato d"Asti (more of which later). In common with the neighboring region of Alba, however, Asti is also home to one of the most powerful and full-bodied wines produced anywhere in the country: Barbera. This grape, whose origins are not exactly clear, was generally considered to be pretty second rate until ever escalating prices of the far nobler Nebbiolo forced it into the spotlight as an affordable alternative. An unusual grape in that it can achieve simultaneously high levels of acidity and sugar, Barbera produces rich, zingy and alcoholic wines that perfectly match the hearty game and mushroom dishes of the region. Produced in a variety of styles, from the plush and velvety oak-driven versions to lean, tart and shrill monstrosities, Barbera is quite versatile. The current trend is towards low yields and higher alcohol levels, which seems to be a global tendency, one that risks robbing the grape of its intrinsic character in favor of ripeness and richness. This example is at once rich and refreshing, with typical stewed plum aromas and flavors and a clean, slightly acidic finish. With hints of mushroom and coffee, the wine has a decent level of complexity for its price point, and makes a great accompaniment to grilled meats and strong cheeses.

Colognole Chianti Rufina, Tuscany ($13)
Rufina is a small, high-quality sub-region of Chianti, approximately 20 miles east of Florence. Aficionados of wines from this district insist that the excellent Sangiovese-based reds are longer lasting and improve more with age than those of any other part of Chianti. The first time I tried this excellent Chianti from Colognole, I was convinced that it was at least twice as expensive, such was the depth, richness and ripeness of the wine. With four very good vintages in a row, starting with the opulent 1997, you can be sure that this will be a great drink, whatever year you pick. The "98, although a little leaner than its predecessor, is drinking very well now, and has lovely notes of herbs and bitter cherries on the nose, and fine, dusty tannins on the palate from aging in Slovenian and French oak. Medium-bodied, and slightly tart, this is a great food wine, which I suspect will age well for at least six or seven years.

Apollonio Salice Salentino, Puglia ($10)
From the very far south of the heel of the boot of Italy lies the region of Puglia (or Apulia in English). A warm growing region, in spite of cooling breezes from the Adriatic, the district that produces Salice Salentino has been predominantly planted to a single grape variety, the Negro Amaro, for over 2,600 years. The other major varietal of the area, Malvasia, is a direct import from Greece. As its name suggests, Negro Amaro is very dark and somewhat bitter, and under the right conditions has the potential to produce wines of a very high alcoholic strength. Full-bodied and redolent of baked fruits, the wines of Salice Salentino can be something of an acquired taste, especially when made by one of the more traditional producers. This example, from a very solid family-owned winery, makes a ripe, fleshy example with a nose and palate of stewed plums accented by a refreshing note of bitterness and just enough acidity to keep things lively.

Apollonio Terragnolo Primitivo Rosso, Puglia ($10)
From the same region as the previous wine, this is a fine example of Primitivo, a grape variety almost genetically identical to Zinfandel. Although for centuries the region of Puglia was renowned largely for sending vast quantities of commercial grade red wine up north for blending, in recent years it has started to produce a number of high-quality bottlings that are proving to be very successful on the export market, especially in countries where value for money and strength of flavor are especially respected. Puglia still has a lot of catching up to do, though, as it still only produces 2 percent of Italy"s DOC rated wines, but a vast percentage of its plonk. With a bright, fruity nose brimming with blackberries and raspberries, the Appolonio Primitivo has loads of flavor and extract, as well as a healthy level of alcohol, soft tannins and barely perceptible acidity. Soft and fleshy on the palate, this is a perfect wine to consume with hearty meat and cheese dishes, and lends itself well to anything grilled.

Saracco Moscato d'Asti, Piedmonte ($14)
Just as a glass of Prosecco makes for the perfect appetizer, so does a glass of sweet, fizzy Moscato d"asti provide the ideal end to a meal, especially when accompanied by some ripe stone fruits or soft cheeses. From the same town that gives us the generally inferior Spumante, Moscato d"Asti is bottled at a lower level of carbonation than its cousin, which means that it"s generally easier to drink in generous quantities. Combine this with a mandatory 5.5 percent alcohol by volume, and you have a perfect breakfast wine, should you feel so inclined. Ripe and redolent of peaches and nectarines, Saracco Moscato is a very fine example of what this gorgeous and refreshing wine is all about. With its sweet flavor perfectly balanced by clean, crisp acidity, it just dances easily along the palate from one delicious sip to the next without ever getting cloying. What better way to satisfy sugar cravings?