I always like to remind people that among the revelations the Human Genome Project uncovered, it also complicated the concept of universally great-tasting food (and, consequently, my job). People’s genes affect their taste buds’ sensitivity to certain foods and flavors. Some people experience a bitter sensation more than others, for example. I wonder, then, how people will react to Taiwan Tea House’s subtle flavors. Could it be a universal unifier?

The small eatery is tucked in the middle of a Northside strip mall, identified by its teapot marquee. There are only a few small tables inside, but the clean eatery nails the details. Picturesque serving dishes sport rich colors and patterns. A boisterous Taiwanese cooking show was beamed through the mounted TV when I visited.  

Take the meatballs with rice dish ($6.99) as testimony to the food’s restrained good taste. The two supple balls are steeped in a light broth whose viscosity is somewhere between thick Chinese takeout sauces and bouillon. Napa cabbage and other vegetables wade around, adding texture and a bit of flavor.

Back to the meatballs: Their exterior is crisp, but not quite fried, reminiscent of the salty, nebulous meat taste that characterizes the Asian umami sensation. Perhaps it’s ginger that conjures a fleeting pungency? I tried it many times, and the second I felt closer to what comprised the taste, it went away from my tongue, and I was left with soft, lightly seasoned meat.

An accompanying plate held two flat hills of rice for soaking and two miniature crabmeat rangoons set atop a light sauce that could have been spiked with dill.  

A word about crabmeat rangoons: These soggy cream cheese puffs have never struck my fancy. But Taiwan Tea House executed theirs with the exactness of origami. The wonton wraps were crisp, not waterlogged, and the cream was light and airy. These little fried string purses were presented atop the orange glaze like presents.

I started this recounting of my meal at the end. The entrees at this restaurant are usually preceded by a soup of the day, and the one I encountered was a light broth with vegetables. It’s taste-light, not tasteless, but very soothing. This one’s all about textures and warmth. The carrots and Napa cabbage were cooked so that they fell apart in your mouth, and everything was very fresh.

Deep fried green beans ($2.75) were rebellious outliers. Their wilted, crunchy texture was understated. But then a generous amount of salt, garlic and onions nestled in their layers.

End, start or accompany your meal with part of the place’s central draw: bubble or boba tea. I eased into the experience with the red milk tea ($2.75), though you can choose from about 23 mixtures of single and layered fruit-flavored teas. My blend of milk and tea was topped with a frothier, sweeter bit of milk foam not quite as sweet as a milkshake. The boba at the bottom are actually chewy tapioca pearls that provide more texture than flavor.

My entire meal came to a very reasonable $13 — especially since it was enough food for one-and-a-half people. Do note, however, that portions are not served family style as in some Asian restaurants.

Everything at Taiwan Tea House is fresh and delicately flavored. It’s the international language of good food in the post-HGP era.

Taiwan Tea House
4040 E. 82nd St.
317-598-9733

Hours
Tuesday-Thursday: 11 a.m.-9 p.m.
Friday-Saturday: 11 a.m.-10 p.m.
Sunday: 11 a.m.-8:30 p.m.
Closed Mondays

Food: four stars
Atmosphere: four stars
Service: four stars

Recommended dishes: boba tea, meatballs with rice