Turning Japanese
by Jennifer Litz Jun 18, 2008

When temperatures rise to “egg sizzling,” it’s time to look, well, hot. ’Tis the season for lean, mean sushi … and tempura sushi, too.


FortyFiveDegrees has opened up at the end of Massachusetts Avenue (745 Massachusetts Ave., to be exact). It’s the epitome of an eclectic, high-end sushi joint — for starters, it’s right under Michael Andretti’s (part-time) residence. The place is so named for its 45-degree position, and the outer walls’ bends pay homage to the angle. Electric blue booths, sides flush with the venue’s inner walls, give the feel of a modern diner. At the center of it all is the bar. A sushi station crouches to the right of that.

I tried a spicy tuna roll, which tasted fresh. But FortyFive serves up more than just sushi. Sautéed (not fried) calamari, pasta and Cajun-influenced dishes also dot the eclectic menu. My dining partner tried a dish with prawns and portabella mushroom over crostini, drizzled with an orangish Cajun sauce that could have used a bit more kick. Points, though, for a pungent wasabi instead of the squeeze-tube paste some places use.

Speaking of weaker wasabi, I also tried Asaka (6414 E. 82nd St.) because of glowing reviews from IndyEthnicFood.com users. They described the place as the dive where all their food-service and Japanese friends like to go, especially for “Happy Hour Sushi Time” from 5-7 p.m. Tuesday-Sunday.

A very young, attractive crowd frequents the small place tucked inside the 82nd Street shopping center. The inside is small, cozy and clean with plenty of Asian motifs.

I ordered shrimp tempura and spicy tuna hand rolls ($2.95 each) from the happy hour menu, and waited for those seaweed-wrapped cones to arrive. But first, agedashi dofu  (deep-fried soybean tofu) and shrimp and crab dumplings (“shumai”) would prep my palate.

The tiny dumplings looked like giant, shriveled marshmallows and had a delicate, slightly sweet aftertaste. Eat them quickly, however. Water from their steaming process leaks out, making them soggy.

I was delighted that the agedashi dofu’s “vegetable sauce” was actually a broth. The lightly fried soy was good enough for bean curd enthusiasts, but many might find the umami-rich broth a bit on the salty side.

The thing that most impressed me here (besides the $15 final tab) was the shrimp tempura. The shrimp were a decent size, the batter was light, and the single tail expertly left at the roll’s opening added a bit of pizazz. Not so for the spicy tuna, which came in a fire engine red hue and looked like it had been squeezed out of a bottle. Actually, it was the color of the iconic Huy Fung Sriracha Hot Chile sauce many Chinese restaurants carry, and probably for good reason.

Spicy tuna enthusiasts take note: The best I’ve had in town has come from Ocean World (1206 W. 86th St.), sister restaurant to the omnipresent Sakura. These rolls actually masquerade under the description of “tuna tar tar.” Their blend of green onion, spicy sauce and small fish eggs adds a kiss of hot while allowing fresh tuna to shine through.

Finally, I’d just like to remind everyone about Mikado (148 S. Illinois St.).

Do yourself a favor and order the Sumo roll for the fattest, freshest, most buttery raw salmon you’ll have in town. Owner Yu Mei Lee says she has to pay airport personnel a bit extra sometimes to wait for her to pick up her fresh fish shipments after hours, instead of the next morning. But what a difference that salvaged bit of time makes.

For a lesson in titillating textures, order the Tiger Eye roll. This smoked salmon/ cream cheese/jalapeno roll is greater than the sum of its parts. Only these inner three ingredients are fried, then wrapped in soy paper and placed inside rice for an addicting sensation that’s simultaneously creamy, crunchy and warm.

And it’s not sushi, but … if you’re a shrimp fan, you must try the pepper prawns dish. These fat, firm shrimp encircle spinach, made gossamer by an infusion of peppery oil.

It’s too good to be diet food.

Comments on Turning Japanese
Oishi Sushi
by SUSHINUT | Aug 4, 2008

A new sushi place on the East side of town, yes I said East Side. 10th and Shadeland Ave. PLEASE give this place your business. I've been going to Sakura for years and I still love them, but Oishi is only 5 min away, it's quite, the sushi is fantastic, fresh and there's a huge vareity. East siders need to keep this place in business!!!!

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Best Sushi in Indy (IMHO)...
by Morgana | Jul 10, 2008

...is Ichiban on US 31 South in Greenwood. Try the Liz roll - it's fan-freakin'-tastic!

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sushi joints
by oceanie | Jun 29, 2008

Really like Asaka, and also Kona Jacks on the northside, (the seared tuna and scallop plates are heaven), and in Carmel, we like Sansui: resonable prices and portions, very fresh. I've been meaning to get to some of the Fishers places but haven't gotten away from the northside much yet. I think Wasabi is overrated, overpriced, and understaffed, judging by last couple of visits. Go a bit further east instead to Ichiban on Bash, prices are better and service is much more attentive. I feel about the same with Naked Tchopstix & H2O in Broad Ripple as I do Wasabi - decent eats but way too pricy and they couldn't give a darn less about you. The dining market is a little precious for staff to make anyone feel less than wholly welcome.

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True That
by Anonymous | Jun 24, 2008

Wasabi is almost as good as Sakura, but better on the whole for being an underappreciated gem.

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by sushilover | Jun 24, 2008

Asaka is a fave for the low-budget get-your-grub-on sushi, but Wasabi on 82nd has consistently the best sushi in town, IMO. Their tempura rolls (mistake roll, asparagus, shrimp etc) are unmatched and their spicy citrus ponzu sauce puts all the more common soy-based ponzu to shame. It surprises me that Wasabi on 82nd does not get the attention that it deserves.

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